Get a Grip: Understanding Types of Rock Climbing Holds

Climbing gyms are full of holds of various sizes, shapes, and colors, but did you know that almost all of these holds actually fall into several categories of types of holds? Understanding the types of rock climbing holds in your gym and knowing the lexicon can help you talk about routes and understand better how to send. Let’s break down some of the most common and unique types of climbing holds you’ll encounter: pinches, crimps, slopers, jugs, pockets (also known as wacos), dual-tex, and volumes.

Pinches: Not just for babies' cheeks and St. Patrick's Day

Pinches are exactly what they sound like: holds that require you to squeeze with your thumb on the opposite side of the hold as your four fingers (like gripping a soup can). Pinches can vary wildly in width and depth, with some being shallow and tiny, and others tapering towards one end or the other, but the general technique to utilize a pinch on the wall remains the same; create compression between your thumb and fingers by squeezing, engaging the muscles of the fingers, hand, and forearm to stay latched on. Body tension is key with pinches, whether found on overhung walls, compression-style problems, or other problems.

Crimps: You hate them until you love them

Crimps are some of the smallest, thinnest, and most hotly contested holds in climbing, with climbers usually existing in one of two camps - loving crimps or hating them. A crimp is typically a thin edge that only accommodates the tips of your fingers, ranging from a “juggy” 30 mils down to a miniscule 4 or 5 mils. There are different ways to grip a crimp, from an open crimp (safer on the tendons) to a full crimp (more powerful but a higher risk for overgrip injury). In a commercial setting, crimps are common in face and slab climbing, as utilizing overhung crimps is a skill mastered by the strongest climbers. For beginners, crimps are often one of the most difficult holds to use, as finger strength takes time to develop. Training on a hangboard or doing max-pulls is a common way to build up the finger strength required for crimps, but it is extremely easy to overdo it and cause injury at the start. Finger training and climbing on crimps should be a skill that is built progressively to keep your digits happy.

Slopers: You should probably be brushing them more

Slopers can be some of the most frustrating holds in the gym, seemingly approachable due to their usually large size, but infuriatingly difficult to grip due to their smooth, rounded features, often without any defined texture or edge to grab. Slopers are synonymous with friction and require ample surface contact to make them feel usable. Slopers are also notorious for becoming much “worse” when conditions like humidity are present or the hold becomes slick from chalk. Climbing on slopers requires tuning into your center of gravity and staying low and below the hold, maximizing downward force as close to the wall as possible. Slopers as feet are similar, often benefiting from a dropped heel and increased foot surface area, rather than delicate balance on toes.

Jugs: Everyone’s best friend

Jugs are big, comfortable, easy to grab, and the least likely to spit you off the wall and ruin your attempt. Friendly jugs are set on low-grade routes usually in the V0-V2 range. A jug appearing on an overhang can suggest a place to rest or a more powerful move (like a cut-feel campus). A jug appearing on a comp wall very likely means there is a dyno or lache move, and the jug is there to generate immense momentum. Overlooked too often, jugs are actually a great way in warmups to practice deadpointing, dynamic movement, dynoing, body position, and other skills without worrying about grip strength or difficult moves.

Wacos: Um, don’t you mean pockets?

Wacos, or more colloquially known as pockets, are donut-shaped holds with holes usually between one to three fingers’ width in diameter in the middle. Wacos are most commonly seen as an outdoor hold type, though they can be seen in almost every commercial climbing gym. Pockets are notorious for causing accidental finger injuries, as they look relatively accessible but can cause strain on fingers due to their small holes and sloping interiors, placing immense weight on one or two fingers. It is important to be cautious with pockets, especially shallow ones or pockets as part of a dynamic move or deadpoint, as they can put a lot of stress on the tendons of your fingers. Proper finger warm-up and hand positioning are extremely important if sending a pocketed climb is on your project list.

Dual-tex: The two-face of climbing holds

Dual-tex holds (short for dual-texture) are increasingly common in modern indoor climbing, especially in the competitive climbing scene. Dual-tex holds have two different surface textures in one hold: one side is a textured, grippy surface like all other holds in the gym, and the other a slick surface, often identifiable by its lack of chalk, designed to offer no friction for hands or feet. Setters use dual-tex to force a climber to use a specific grip or side of the hold, and even force a climber to stand on the slick surface, requiring extra balance. A dual-textured hold demands attention to detail and intentional placement of feel and hands if you intend to use the hold's slippery side.

Volumes: Hey, is that on?

Volumes are large, geometric features that aren’t holds in and of themselves, but can be used as standalone holds or vehicles for attaching other holds to them. Volumes dramatically change the angle of the wall, altering the navigability of a surface and changing the use of the holds attached to them. Volumes are great for creating mantling problems, tenuous but large smearable feet, and paths for coordination moves seen in competitive climbing. Volumes are usually free-for-all and not assigned to any one climb, but they are usable if they are reachable. 

Understanding the different types of climbing holds can help you improve your technique and understand what skills are required to “solve” a boulder problem or send a route. What are your favorite hold types? Let us know in the comments below!