How to Stay in Climbing Shape When Injured

Injuries suck. Whether you're an athlete or not, injuries can be an inconvenience that makes even the simplest tasks more difficult, let alone maintaining a physical fitness routine. For climbers, common injuries involve the fingers, wrists, elbows, shoulders, knees, ankles, or feet. If you are staring down an injury that will sideline you for weeks or months, you're likely anxious to find ways to stay in climbing shape. While we wish you a speedy recovery and encourage you to rest, there are always ways to make lemonade when handed lemons.

 

Ways to Stay in Climbing Shape When Injured

Staying in climbing shape when injured will look different for everyone and is highly dependent on the injury. We'll try to cover all the bases, but it's best to consult a professional before engaging in physical activity during recovery. 

For the Climber with a Finger or Wrist Injury

Finger or wrist injuries are likely to render you unable to climb or severely limit the scope of your climbing (i.e., avoiding certain types of holds). These injuries may feel the most frustrating, but they leave ample room for building strength and cardiovascular fitness that will help you on the wall. 

Take this opportunity to prioritize weight training and cardiovascular exercise. Focus on a combination of pulling and pushing exercises to build climbing-specific upper-body strength while preventing muscle imbalances. Single-leg lower-body exercises like RDLs and plyometrics will help with dynamic movements, heel hooks, and toe hooks. Add core work to strengthen all the muscles of the lower back, abs, and hip flexors, which play a critical role in on-the-wall stabilization. Lastly, incorporating a mix of high-intensity (max effort) and steady-state (effort you can maintain for hours) cardio will improve your overall fitness levels, increasing your stamina when you return to climbing. Some popular cardio options include running, cycling, swimming, using an elliptical machine, and rowing. 

As you progress through your recovery, incorporate variations of weighted finger pulls or hangs on a hangboard as you can. Any climbing you can do without pain, even if modified, will help you maintain your technique. 

For the Climber with an Upper Body Injury (Back, Shoulder, Elbow)

Upper body injuries are more challenging to manage due to their larger surface area and increased use compared to injuries to wrists and fingers. Depending on the location and severity of the injury, activities such as hangboarding may also be ruled out. 

Instead, look to incorporate weighted pulls using a portable fingerboard. This may only be feasible on the non-injured side, but it's worth continuing to train finger strength to the extent possible. Incorporating any pain-free upper-body strength training will also be key. If your elbow is injured and you can't do pushing exercises but can perform back and shoulder workouts, such as rows or lateral raises, pain-free, try incorporating those into your routine. 

As with a finger or wrist injury, incorporating core, lower-body, and cardio workouts will help you return to climbing stronger and with increased fitness. If you are not in a sling or cast, try slab climbing with one hand to hone technique and movement patterns. 

For the Climber with a Lower Body Injury (Hip, Leg, Ankle, Foot)

Lower body injuries will limit the scope of your climbing, but usually allow for the easiest maintenance of climbing-specific strength. Hangboarding, upper-body, and core workouts should be feasible and prove critical for maintaining finger strength and increasing pulling and pushing strength.

However, bouldering may not be possible due to the risk of falling. If comfortable and confident in your abilities, try one-foot climbing on easier boulders, opting to downclimb everything. Ideally, you can access a training board (e.g., Moon Board, Tension Board, Kilter) and perform one-footed climbs close to the ground, minimizing falls. Auto belays or top-rope climbing are also great options if they are available to you.  

Maintaining your climbing strength when injured is possible. It just takes creativity and adaptability. We get it, no one wants to be injured. However, injuries happen, and making the most of the situation by focusing on what you can do will help you stay positive and return to climbing stronger than before. If you've struggled with a climbing injury before, feel free to share your advice for getting through it and coming back ready to tick off your goals. Cheers to a speedy recovery and happy healing!