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Mastering the Grip: Techniques for Every Climbing Hold

So you’ve got the lay of the land when it comes to climbing holds—jugs, crimps, slopers, pinches, pockets, underclings, volumes. Great! Now it’s time to level up. Because recognizing a hold is only half the battle, the real magic happens when you know how to use it.


Whether you're projecting your first V4 or fine-tuning your technique for comp season, this guide walks you through how to work with the hold instead of fighting against it. Let’s get into it:

 

Jugs: Your Climbing Comfort Zone

Jugs are big, deep, and blessedly beginner-friendly. But don’t get sloppy—good jug technique saves energy.

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Technique Tips:

  • Full-Hand Grip: Wrap all fingers around and keep the thumb engaged.

  • Stay Efficient: Keep your arms slightly bent and rely on leg drive to move up, rather than just relying on your biceps.

 

Crimps: Finger Strength on Trial

These tiny edges test your finger tendons and precision. Power moves meet finesse.

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Technique Tips:

  • Open Crimp: Less stress, better for longevity. Keep your fingers curved, not locked.

  • Full Crimp: More bite, more risk. Thumb wraps over the index. Use sparingly.

  • Proximity: Get your center of gravity close to the wall to maximize leverage.

 

Slopers: The Friction Game

There’s no cheating with slopers. Either you’ve got surface contact, or gravity wins.

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Technique Tips:

  • Open-Hand Grip: Spread your fingers wide; think of a palm press, not a pinch.

  • Body Tension: Engage core, keep hips under the hold, and trust the friction (even when it feels sketchy).

 

Pinches: The Squeeze Test

Pinches require engagement from both sides—fingers and thumb.

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Technique Tips:

  • Opposing Force: Create compression by squeezing thumb and fingers together.

  • Wrist Alignment: Keep it straight to avoid torque and premature fatigue.

 

Pockets: The Precision Trap

One-finger to three-finger holds that can make or break your flash attempt.

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Technique Tips:

  • Strongest Digits: Use middle and ring fingers for most support.

  • Don’t Over-Commit: Only insert as much as needed—too deep = too risky.

  • Stay Controlled: Fast, jerky movement can wreck your tendons. Ease into the pocket.

 

Underclings: Pulling From Below

Upside-down and awkward—until you master the footwork.

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Technique Tips:

  • High Feet: Find good footholds above the undercling to push upward.

  • Core Activation: Keep tension throughout your body to stay in control during the move.

 

Volumes: Big and Bold

Volumes demand creativity. They change the shape of a wall and force climbers to read movement, not just holds.

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Technique Tips:

  • Use the Whole Thing: Palm it, toe hook it, smear on it—there’s no wrong answer.

  • Stay Dynamic: Movement should be exploratory and dynamic. Think balance over brute force.

 

Master the Grip, Not Just the Hold

You don’t need brute strength to climb smarter. Understanding how to engage with each hold type helps you conserve energy, prevent injuries, and move more gracefully.

So next time you’re on the wall, don’t just grip—master the grip.

 

Want hands-on guidance? Come to one of our classes at Contact Climbing Gym. Whether you’re just starting or chasing your next grade, we’ve got you. Check our class schedule and sign up—your fingers (and forearms) will thank you.

 
 
 
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